Doberge Cake it's history & recipe

Since it's just past my birthday I'm gonna share w/y'all  my, forever B'day cake, from Gambina's (as I called it). Gambino's Bakery is an icon of New Orleans, more famous for the doberge cake than Beulah Ledner (the creator).  Many people think that it began there, but found out that wasn't the case! The traditional flavors are chocolate, lemon and caramel. (I had 1/2 lemon & 1/2 chocolate for my B'day) Doberge cake is an staple of living in New Orleans. It is a yummy multi-layered cake with pastry cream inside and a poured glaze on the outside.

If you look up Doberge in a french dictionary and the word is not there. Back in the 1930's there was a New Orleanian lady named Beulah Ledner, who came from a baking family in Germany. She started baking during the Depression a variation on the famed Hungarian-Austrian dobos torta to supplement the family's income. She changed the recipe to thin layers of butter cake with a custard filling, either chocolate or lemon. Since "dobos" wouldn't fly in New Orleans the word was "Frenchified" to fit the city. That's how the name "doberge" was born.

How do you pronounce it? (I say dough-bearj (what I heard most); some say dough-bosh or dough-boj.) After a heart attack Beulah sold the bakery, the name and the recipes to the Joe Gambino family.(I think after WWII) The original recipe is a secret held by the Gamino family(this is the closest I've run across I believe the original icing was glaze & poured not spread?)

Makes 1 (9-inch) Doberge Cake
Prep Time: 1 hour
Cook Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 2 hours (if your lucky)

Ingredients:

Chocolate Ganache Icing:
 1 1/2 cups heavy cream

Traditional multi-layered Chocolate

 12 ounces finely chopped semisweet chocolate
 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
 Chocolate Pudding Filling:
 5 large egg yolks
 1/2 cup sugar
 3 tablespoons cornstarch
 2 tablespoons cocoa powder
 1/4 teaspoon salt
 2 cups milk
 1 teaspoon vanilla
 4 ounces finely chopped semisweet chocolate
 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  
 Cake:
 8 ounces (2 sticks) + 2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter
 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
 3/4 teaspoon salt
 1 teaspoon vanilla
 6 large eggs
 1 3/4 cups sugar
 3/4 cup milk

Preparation:
(note: The ganache and pudding should be made first because they time to set up.)

Ganache icing:
Bring cream to a boil in a medium saucepan. Pour hot cream over chocolate in a heat resistant bowl and llargeet sit for 2 minutes. Whisk mixture until ganache has a nice sheen and is completely smooth.  Then whisk in butter and press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface.   Set aside  (6 hours

Chocolate pudding filling: Whisk egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch, cocoa and salt together in a medium bowl and set aside. Bring milk to a boil in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat and slowly whisk in a little egg mixture. Once bottom of bowl is warm, slowly whisk in remaining hot milk. Pour mixture back into a clean medium saucepan, add the vanilla, and whisk over medium-low heat until it thickens, 3 to 4 minutes. Cook while constantly whisking until pudding   is glossy and quite thick, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes longer.  Transfer pudding to a clean bowl.  Add chopped chocolate and butter and gently whisk until chocolate is completely incorporated. Press a piece of plastic wrap onto surface of pudding to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate (at least 4 hours)

For the cake: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 9-inch spring form pan. Wrap the bottom in aluminum foil and place on a baking sheet.  In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt and set aside. Stir vanilla into 8 ounces plus 2 tablespoons melted butter and set aside another heat resistant bowl (large), whisk together eggs and sugar. Place over (not in) a pot of barely simmering water. Whisking constantly, heat the mixture until it is warm to the touch, (3 minutes) Remove from heat and whip on high until cool and tripled in volume, (3 minutes)  Reduce mixer speed to medium low and drizzle in the melted butter-vanilla mixture.

By hand, fold in 1/3 of the flour mixture followed with 1/2 of the milk. Repeat, ending with flour. Transfer batter to prepared pan and bake until a toothpick tests clean, about 1 hour. Let cool in the pan 5 minutes, then invert onto a wire rack. Unclasp the spring form pan sides and carefully removing the ring, and allow the cake to cool completely with the pan bottom still in place. Once cool, remove the pan bottom from the cake and divide it into 4 equal layers.

Wash and dry the spring form pan and use it to assemble the cake. Lightly coat the bottom and sides of the pan with cooking spray. Place two (20-inch-long) pieces plastic wrap in pan so entire bottom and sides are covered, allowing ends of plastic to hang over sides of pan.  Place 1 cake layer in spring form pan and top with 2/3 cup chocolate pudding filling (you will have leftover filling after the cake is assembled), leaving a 1/2-inch border of bare cake around the edge. Repeat with the remaining cake layers and chocolate pudding filling. Cover the top of the cake with the plastic wrap overhang (or another piece if there isn't enough), and refrigerate 4 hours or overnight.

Place four (6-inch-wide) strips of parchment paper hanging off the end of the platter. (This will keep the tray clean while frosting. Remove after you've iced.) Remove the plastic wrap from the top of the cake and invert cake onto the serving platter. Unhinge the sides of the springform pan and remove. Peel off plastic wrap. Give the ganache a stir and ice top and sides of cake with it. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Cake can be served cold or at room temperature (even better).

White Chocolate Lemon Ganache
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
12 ounces white chocolate, chopped; NOT candy. Use an excellent quality chocolate
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

My choice B'day cake only plain w/ Happy Birthday written across the top

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
1/8 teaspoon lemon extract
2-3 drops yellow gel food coloring (optional)
Lemon Pudding Filling:
5 large egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Ganache icing:
Heat the cream in the microwave, or in a pot, till it reaches a gentle boil. Pour hot cream oven chocolate, and gently shake bowl to cover the chocolate with the cream. Add the lemon zest and let the mixture sit for 2 minutes.  Stir the mixture, in one direction, and then gently whisk to combine, & til ganache is completely smooth.  Then whisk in butter and press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface.  Add lemon extract, and gel food coloring, if desired.  Set aside for 6 hours.

Make the best lemon cake recipe you find and lemon pudding if you want the lemon cake.  What Gambino did was to cut one of each in 1/2 and combine them for 2 cakes each favor.  Your on your own for the caramel cake.

French Onion Soup

M-m-m good

This was my family's Christmas Eve supper.  We would have it with extra crusty French bread then go to the mid night service. After we came home my brother and I would ask to open our presents.  When we were children we were told Santa hadn't come yet so the family's presents would have to wait to the morning after his arrival. (oh so sad)

4-5 large Onions (thinly sliced)1/4 cup butter
6 cups beef stock (hot)
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp paprika (smoky,hot or mild)
1/8 tsp pepper
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
6 rounds French bread (toasted)
1/2 cup Gruyère cheese ( grated)
1/2cup Parmesan  cheese (grated)
1/2cup dry white wine (optional)

Sauté onions in butter til golden over low fire (20-30 min.) Add stock, seasonings (not Worcestershire)   and wine (if using) bring to boil then add Worcestershire.  Serve over round of French bread at bottom of
bowl.  Place the Gruyère cheese on bread before ladling soup over top sprinkle Parmesan cheese.  (serves6)

                   Here's an homage to modern times microwave instructions:

In a 3 qt. microwaveable dish combine butter and onions microwave covered on high til onions are tender (10 min.) Stir 1/2 way. Add everything but the Worcestershire. Microwave 10 more minutes on high.  Add Worcestershire follow instructions as above.

Vegetables with Brown Rice

Since I'm a veggie freak I loved this one; I use actual brown rice rather than make the recipe Chef Paul has in the book.  If you are a Chef Paul purest, please go get Fork in the road, there are tons more recipes! He has some marvelous desserts.  There's one called Chocolate Yum Stuff, believe you me, it's yummy. My mouth watered when I read it, let a lone when it was made!
                                            On to veggies with brown rice.
Seasoning Mix

2 tsp salt
2 tsp sweet paprika
1 1/2 tsp onion powder
1 1/2 tsp sweet basil
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp dry  mustard
1 tsp thyme
1 tsp dillweed
1/2 tsp white pepper
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp black pepper
1/4 tsp savoy
--------------
1 eggplant
3 bay leaves
1 tsp minced garlic
2 cup chopped onions
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup zucchini (diced)
3 cup fresh mushrooms
1 cup yellow squash (diced)
1 1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper
1/2 cup apple juice
2 cups defatted chicken stock    *
4 cups peeled, diced fresh tomatoes or 2 14 oz. cans
* see  Sweet Pepper Cream Shrimp recipe                                                                                                
Combine seasoning mix in small bowl.  Peel eggplant quarter it then sprinkle all surfaces with the seasoning mix.  Cook eggplant about 2 min. in a 12 inch frying pan (non stick preferable) you've pre-heated on high heat until brown. (2 min. per side) Add apple juice cook for 6 min. turning eggplant periodically til all the eggplant is caramelized, set aside.
Combine the onions, bell peppers, celery with 1 tablespoon seasoning mix cook stirring periodically til crust forms o the bottom. (12 min or so) Add 1 cup stock scraping bottom to get all the bits. Add garlic Cook until all the vegetables are all evenly brown and sweet tasting. (5 min)When the liquid has evaporated and a new crust has formed; add tomatoes loosening the crust from the bottom . Put in remaining veggies, seasoning mix and stock along with the bay leaves. When adding the eggplant to the skillet make certain it is submerged in the sauce. Reduce heat to medium simmer 12 min. or until eggplant is tender. I prefer the eggplant in smaller pieces as it over brown rice.  Remember,  I prefer true brown rice, which I cook according to the package instructions.

Oven "Fried" Catfish

This is a good way to "fry" any type of fish that one might otherwise fry. (doesn't have to just be catfish) My take on Chef Paul's recipe made the seasoning mix per Fork in the Road.

Seasoning mix

1 1/4 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp salt
1 tsp onion powder
1 tsp sweet basil
1/2 tsp white pepper
1/2 tsp black pepper1/2 tsp sweet paprika
1/2 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp oregano
1/8 tsp cayenne

Catfish filets
1/2 cup read crumbs (toasted)
2 Tb parsley (fresh finely chopped, minced)
3 Tb finely sliced green onions
1 Tb olive oil
Combine seasoning mix in small bowl. Sprinkle evenly on all surfaces of  the fish 4 tsp only. Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees. Combine the bread crumbs, parsley, green onions with the rest of the seasoning mix, add the oil combining it with your fingers until all the crumbs are moist. "Dredge" the fillets by carefully patting/pressing the crumbs to the fish flesh. Softly shake off any excess crumbs. Place into a non stick baking dish/sheet display side up.  Bake about 6 minutes, turn fish over and bake 6 more minutes.  Turn fillets over one last time  (display side up) cook 'til done. (4 more minutes) Serve straight away.

Crawfish Mushroom Omlete

Chef Paul, himself, in  Fork in the Road  said this is one of his favorites. It was the biggest  hit while they were testing the recipes.  He said if you can't get crawfish you can  substitute shrimp or diced chicken breast. Here we go with recipe. This makes four omelets.

Seasoning  Mix
2 1/2 tsp sweet paprika
1 3/4 tsp onion powder

Crawfish Mushroom Omlete

1 3/4 tsp garlic powder
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 tsp dry mustard
1 1/2 tsp cilanto
1 1/2 tsp sweet basil
1 tsp thyme
1/2 tsp back pepper
1/4 tsp white pepper
1/4 tsp cayenne

Creamy Mixture
5 oz. evaporated milk
1/2 cup non fat cottage cheese
2 Tb non fat cream cheese

oil cooking spray
1 cup chopped onions
2 Tb flour (all purpose)
1 cup defatted seafood stock*
2 1/2 cups sliced fresh mushrooms
2 oz. peeled crawfish tails (or whatever you're substituting)
4 (8oz.) cartons egg substitute (in case you don't know that's whites only, pure protein)

* again check New Shrimp Remoulade for recipe for defatted stock

Combine the seasoning mix  in a small bowl set a side. Put the creamy mixture ingredients in a blender purée until smooth and creamy. Pre-heat 10 in. skillet over high heat (4 min.) add onions cook til they begin to brown. (3-4 min) Add 1/4 stock scraping the bottom (for all the flavorful good stuff) 'til all the liquid evaporates and onions start to stick. Add another 1/4 cup of stock with the flour, mushrooms with 2 tablespoons plus 2 tsp of the seasoning mix. Stir until the flour is completely absorbed. Spread the mixture across the skillet (evenly) keep cooking scraping the bottom periodically as crust forms. (3-4 min.) Add remaining 1/2 cup of stock get all bits of "good stuff" from the bottom. Add creamy mixture stirring constantly while bringing it to a boil. Watch carefully as this may over flow; if that happens lower the heat. When it comes to the boil take off heat and transfer mixture to another container. Mix 1 1/2 tsp of seasoning mixture in each carton of egg substitute blending thoroughly. Clean pan put back over high heat (2-3 min.) Spray with oil (lightly) empty 1 carton egg substitute lower heat to medium and cook 'bout 30 seconds; with spatula push cooked eggs toward center of pan. When3/4 of the eggs have cooked add 1/2 cup crawfish/shrimp/chicken/whichever mixture across the center, gently fold, cook 1 min. per side. Voila, repeat the same process for the other three omletes.

Maque Choux Thibodaux

This is a highly seasoned corn dish loved by the most Louisianians.  It is pronounced "mock shoe". Thibodaux is the name of a city in Louisiana as well as a family name. This recipe is a variation on Chef Paul's family favorite made in a lighter fashion.

Seasoning Mix
1 1/2 tsp onion powder

"mock shoe"

1 tsp sweet paprika
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp dry mustard

1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
1/4 tsp white pepper

2 cups chopped onion
1 cup chopped celery
4 cups fresh corn kernels
2 cups defatted chicken stock *
1/2 cup apple juice
1/2 cup prune juice
1/2 cup evaporated skim milk
1/4 cup non fat dry milk

* see Sweet Pepper Cream Shrimp recipe again for defatted stock

Combine the seasoning mix in small bowl set aside. Blend 1 cup of onion, 1/2 cup celery, 2 cups of corn with1/2 cup of stock til completely smooth. Pre-heat heavy skillet (non stick) to about 350 degrees over high heat. (4 min.)

This next step Chef Paul claims is the most important to achieve the final favor of the finished dish. He says don't rush the caramelizing of the puréed vegetables and also use the freshest corn you can find. Place the puréed vegetables in the skillet scraping the bottom periodically for about 12-13 min. as a thin brown crust forms and begins to stick to the bottom blend into the mixture. Do this repeatedly (every 2-3min.) You will find when tasting the brown bits it will have a slightly caramelized corn flavor. This is what you're trying to achieve.

At the end of the 12-13 min. add apple juice, prune juice, the rest if the veggies, seasoning mix and stock.  Bring to a full boil (8-10 min.) stirring to loosen any brown bits that may still be sticking to the bottom. Reduce heat to medium for 35 min. always checking that it doesn't stick to the bottom.. Combine the skim milk with dry in blender until the dry milk is completely dissolved. Add that to the mixture in the skillet. Bring to a simmer (5 mi.) making certain it doesn't stick.

Shrimp Stuffed Acorn Squash

One more from Chef Paul's Fork in the Road. Great for a savory winter meal.

2 medium acorn squash
2 1/2 cups of defatted chicken stock *

Seasoning Mix
2 tsp salt
1 1/2 tsp onion powder
1 1/2 tsp dried sweet basil 

Shrimp Stuffed  Acorn Squash

1/2 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp dry mustard
1 dried thyme
1 tsp white pepper
1 Tb sweet paprika
1/2 tsp black pepper
1/2 tsp cayenne

1 lb medium shrimp
1 whole plain bagel
1 cup chopped celery
2 cups chopped onions
1 tsp minced fresh garlic
1 cup chopped green bell pepper
2 cups finely diced apple (1 large)
1/2 cup apple juice
4 oz grated non fat Cheddar or Muenster cheese

* find how to de-fat stock in the New Shrimp Remoulade recipe

Pre-heat oven to 350  Cut unpeeled squash in half crosswise, scrape out seeds and membrane. Level all ends, stem and blossom, so they won't tip while baking. Put halves in a baking dish with 1 cup of the stock. Cover with foil and bake until tender about 45-50 minutes. When squash is cool enough to handle scoop the meat from the shells leaving jut enough so they'll still holdup. Set them aside, put scraped squash into a large bowl mashing it with a large spoon so it will break up. Set aside. Combine the seasoning mix ingredients in a small bowl. Select 12 of the most perfect looking shrimp set aside for garnish. Cut the remaining shrimp into 1/2 inch pieces sprinkle them with 2 tsp of seasoning mix set aside.
Cut bagel in 3 slices toast then cut into 1/4 inch cubes. Pre-heat 12 inch heavy skillet (preferably non-stick) add onions, peppers, celery, apple and the remaining seasoning mix.  Cook about 10 minutes continuously scraping the bottom, add 1/2  cup of stock and  fresh garlic. (cook 5 min. more, don't stop stirring) add in the last of the apple juice and 1/2 cup  stock. Add shrimp making certain nothing is sticking to anything. Cook 3 minutes more remove from heat add bagel cubes gently mixing thoroughly.
To make the stuffing transfer all from skillet to the bowl holding squash gently fold and toss  until completely mixed. Fill acorn shells by transferring stuffing. (about 1 cup per shell) Garnish with reserved shrimp top with 1 oz of cheese. Add remaining stock to baking pan; bake in a 450 degree pre-heated  oven . (14-15 min)
To make a lovey serving display use the last of the stuffing.  Put a dollop on the plate press with spoon place each squash in it's own little nest .