Friday, August 24, 2012

Doberge Cake it's history & recipe

Since it's just past my birthday I'm gonna share w/y'all  my, forever B'day cake, from Gambina's (as I called it). Gambino's Bakery is an icon of New Orleans, more famous for the doberge cake than Beulah Ledner (the creator).  Many people think that it began there, but found out that wasn't the case! The traditional flavors are chocolate, lemon and caramel. (I had 1/2 lemon & 1/2 chocolate for my B'day) Doberge cake is an staple of living in New Orleans. It is a yummy multi-layered cake with pastry cream inside and a poured glaze on the outside.

If you look up Doberge in a french dictionary and the word is not there. Back in the 1930's there was a New Orleanian lady named Beulah Ledner, who came from a baking family in Germany. She started baking during the Depression a variation on the famed Hungarian-Austrian dobos torta to supplement the family's income. She changed the recipe to thin layers of butter cake with a custard filling, either chocolate or lemon. Since "dobos" wouldn't fly in New Orleans the word was "Frenchified" to fit the city. That's how the name "doberge" was born.

How do you pronounce it? (I say dough-bearj (what I heard most); some say dough-bosh or dough-boj.) After a heart attack Beulah sold the bakery, the name and the recipes to the Joe Gambino family.(I think after WWII) The original recipe is a secret held by the Gamino family(this is the closest I've run across I believe the original icing was glaze & poured not spread?)

Makes 1 (9-inch) Doberge Cake
Prep Time: 1 hour
Cook Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 2 hours (if your lucky)

Ingredients:

Chocolate Ganache Icing:
 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
Traditional multi-layered Chocolate
 12 ounces finely chopped semisweet chocolate
 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
 Chocolate Pudding Filling:
 5 large egg yolks
 1/2 cup sugar
 3 tablespoons cornstarch
 2 tablespoons cocoa powder
 1/4 teaspoon salt
 2 cups milk
 1 teaspoon vanilla
 4 ounces finely chopped semisweet chocolate
 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  
 Cake:
 8 ounces (2 sticks) + 2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter
 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
 3/4 teaspoon salt
 1 teaspoon vanilla
 6 large eggs
 1 3/4 cups sugar
 3/4 cup milk

Preparation:
(note: The ganache and pudding should be made first because they time to set up.)

Ganache icing:
Bring cream to a boil in a medium saucepan. Pour hot cream over chocolate in a heat resistant bowl and llargeet sit for 2 minutes. Whisk mixture until ganache has a nice sheen and is completely smooth.  Then whisk in butter and press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface.   Set aside  (6 hours

Chocolate pudding filling: Whisk egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch, cocoa and salt together in a medium bowl and set aside. Bring milk to a boil in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat and slowly whisk in a little egg mixture. Once bottom of bowl is warm, slowly whisk in remaining hot milk. Pour mixture back into a clean medium saucepan, add the vanilla, and whisk over medium-low heat until it thickens, 3 to 4 minutes. Cook while constantly whisking until pudding   is glossy and quite thick, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes longer.  Transfer pudding to a clean bowl.  Add chopped chocolate and butter and gently whisk until chocolate is completely incorporated. Press a piece of plastic wrap onto surface of pudding to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate (at least 4 hours)

For the cake: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 9-inch spring form pan. Wrap the bottom in aluminum foil and place on a baking sheet.  In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt and set aside. Stir vanilla into 8 ounces plus 2 tablespoons melted butter and set aside another heat resistant bowl (large), whisk together eggs and sugar. Place over (not in) a pot of barely simmering water. Whisking constantly, heat the mixture until it is warm to the touch, (3 minutes) Remove from heat and whip on high until cool and tripled in volume, (3 minutes)  Reduce mixer speed to medium low and drizzle in the melted butter-vanilla mixture.

By hand, fold in 1/3 of the flour mixture followed with 1/2 of the milk. Repeat, ending with flour. Transfer batter to prepared pan and bake until a toothpick tests clean, about 1 hour. Let cool in the pan 5 minutes, then invert onto a wire rack. Unclasp the spring form pan sides and carefully removing the ring, and allow the cake to cool completely with the pan bottom still in place. Once cool, remove the pan bottom from the cake and divide it into 4 equal layers.

Wash and dry the spring form pan and use it to assemble the cake. Lightly coat the bottom and sides of the pan with cooking spray. Place two (20-inch-long) pieces plastic wrap in pan so entire bottom and sides are covered, allowing ends of plastic to hang over sides of pan.  Place 1 cake layer in spring form pan and top with 2/3 cup chocolate pudding filling (you will have leftover filling after the cake is assembled), leaving a 1/2-inch border of bare cake around the edge. Repeat with the remaining cake layers and chocolate pudding filling. Cover the top of the cake with the plastic wrap overhang (or another piece if there isn't enough), and refrigerate 4 hours or overnight.

Place four (6-inch-wide) strips of parchment paper hanging off the end of the platter. (This will keep the tray clean while frosting. Remove after you've iced.) Remove the plastic wrap from the top of the cake and invert cake onto the serving platter. Unhinge the sides of the springform pan and remove. Peel off plastic wrap. Give the ganache a stir and ice top and sides of cake with it. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Cake can be served cold or at room temperature (even better).

White Chocolate Lemon Ganache
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
12 ounces white chocolate, chopped; NOT candy. Use an excellent quality chocolate
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
My choice B'day cake only plain w/ Happy Birthday written across the top
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
1/8 teaspoon lemon extract
2-3 drops yellow gel food coloring (optional)
Lemon Pudding Filling:
5 large egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Ganache icing:
Heat the cream in the microwave, or in a pot, till it reaches a gentle boil. Pour hot cream oven chocolate, and gently shake bowl to cover the chocolate with the cream. Add the lemon zest and let the mixture sit for 2 minutes.  Stir the mixture, in one direction, and then gently whisk to combine, & til ganache is completely smooth.  Then whisk in butter and press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface.  Add lemon extract, and gel food coloring, if desired.  Set aside for 6 hours.

Make the best lemon cake recipe you find and lemon pudding if you want the lemon cake.  What Gambino did was to cut one of each in 1/2 and combine them for 2 cakes each favor.  Your on your own for the caramel cake.

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