Saturday, December 31, 2011

Black-eyed peas

Enough of the history on w/the food!

1 pound dried black-eyed peas
(fresh or canned black-eyed peas can be substituted)
6 ounces pork shoulder diced into 1/2-inch cubes
4 strips thick bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
1 medium onion, small diced
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon garlic powder
4 garlic cloves, sliced
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
4 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons oil 
2 cups water
3 bay leaves
Hot-pepper vinegar, as desired
Directions
If using dried black-eyed peas, put in a large pot and cover with about 4 inches of water. Soak the peas overnight, then drain the water and rinse. You can "quick-soak" the peas by bringing them to a boil. (2 minutes) After this, remove from heat, cover the pot and soak the peas (1 hour) Then, dain and rinse the peas. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot (shimmering) add pork. Sear until pork is browned on all sides (4 to 5 minutes) Add the bacon, onion and garlic to the pot and cook, stirring, until the onion and garlic are lightly browned, about 6 to 8 minutes. Add the salt, black pepper, cayenne and garlic powder; saute until the entire mixture is coated with the spices (about 2 minutes) Pour in the stock and water and drop in the bay leaves. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes.

When the pork begins to fall apart, add the prepared peas to the pot and simmer until the peas are very soft, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. (If you want them creamy as when you cook red beans you can do either of two things. You can take the spoon you're cooking w/mashing them aside the pot. Or you can take out a small portion (about 1 cup or so) & puree them then back to the pot)

New Years meal

Julius Caesar chose the Julian calendar in 46 BC, as a result, January 1 became the day for Western world celebrations of the New Year. Due to our French heritage there’s only one thing to eat black-eyed peas (a gift from a part of Africa ruled by the French for a long time) Black-eyed peas are de rigueur in New Orleans, a place where France left a big shoe print. Whatever the truth of the story, cabbage leaves represent paper greenbacks and black-eyed peas, long considered a lucky legume because of their association with coins, particularly West Africa. Where slavers stole most of the slaves away from that part of the world and shipped them to the Antebellum South.  As far back as the time of the pharaohs of Egypt, people believed that eating black-eyed peas would bring luck on certain auspicious days.

New Year’s Day carries with it a whole truckload of fascinating history. Depending on whom you ask, the foods represent various types of blessings and success. Eating food for strength, health, and wealth an age old phenomenon. For instance, pigs are popular symbols of good luck and progress in some European countries; anything green is considered a sign of prosperity. Some sources say that Thomas Jefferson (the first real American gourmet/foodie) introduced black-eyed peas to the region around his Monticello estate, at least as a serious crop and ground cover. There is speculation that Black-eyed peas came from Africa to Virginia in the 1600s? Apparently didn’t really become a major crop until later. (after the Revolutionary War)

Now supposedly Northern troops thought the beans they saw in the field were field peas, in their minds only good for feeding livestock. The grateful Southerners “found” the beans and saved themselves from starvation. According to folklore throughout the South the first food to be eaten on New Year's Day for luck and prosperity throughout the year ahead is black-eyed peas. One must eat at least 365 black-eyed peas on New Year's Day to ensure best chance of luck every day in the year ahead.  Whatever the truth of that story maybe?

As said prior cabbage leaves represent paper greenbacks and black-eyed peas, long considered a lucky legume because of their association with coins particularly West Africa where slavers stole most of the slaves away from that part of the world then shipped them to the Antebellum South. The history of cabbage is so long and varied was an important food, and the French, Germans and English took cabbage seeds to America. Cabbage is supposed to bring financial prosperity in the coming year. A custom of some was to boil a shiny new dime (making certain it is germ free) then putting it a pot of smothered cabbage. The one who finds the dime is supposed to have more luck in that coming year. This was the lore I was told when but a little girl as to why one cooked the cabbage (for money) and the black-eyed peas (for prosperity). It’s the hope that life will change the desire for money and luck that causes a lot of New Year’s Day food preparations.

Roast Fresh Ham

Roast Fresh Ham
8-to 10-pound fresh ham
(1/2 leg of pork)
6 garlic cloves, chopped coarse
2 tbs fresh orange juice
1 tbs vegetable oil
1 tbs wine vinegar
1 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
1/2 tsp dried orégano, crumbled
1 large onion, sliced

Preheat the oven to 350°F. With a sharp knife score the skin and fat of the ham deeply in a diamond pattern. In a blender purée the garlic with 2 tbs orange juice, the oil, the vinegar, the salt, the pepper, and the orégano and rub the mixture all over the ham. Put the onion in the middle of a roasting pan, arrange a rack on top of it, and put the ham on the rack. Roast the ham in the oven for 4 hours, or until a meat thermometer registers 170°F., and let it stand in the pan at room temperature for 15 minutes. Transfer the ham to a carving board, pull off the cracklings (crisp pieces of skin), reserving them, and remove and discard the remaining fat. Slice the meat thin across the grain, arrange it on a platter, and keep it warm with the reserved cracklings, covered.

If you wish to make gravy here's how:
4 cups water
14 cup all-purpose flour
13 cup orange juice (fresh)
2 tbsp wine vinegar
2 tbsp sugar
1 leaf flat leaf parsley (fresh, garnish)
1 strip orange zest (garnish)

Transfer 2 tbs of the fat from the roasting pan to a saucepan and pour off the remaining fat from the pan juices. Add the water to the roasting pan and deglaze the pan over high heat, scraping up the brown bits. Add the flour to the fat in the saucepan, cook the roux over low heat, whisking, for 2 minutes, and strain the mixture from the roasting pan through a sieve into the roux, pressing hard on the solids. Whisk in the orange juice, the vinegar, and the sugar, simmer the gravy, whisking, for 5 minutes, and season it with salt and pepper


Sunday, November 27, 2011

Turducken - Turkey Duck and Chicken

I missed posting in time for Thanksgiving this year, I still want to share the story when my boss/landlady & I made a Turducken. This can be used for Christmas as well. It was Thanksgiving of 1985 & I was watching WDSU channel 6, the NBC affiliate in New Orleans. The station was per usual profiling something new & different to do for Thanksgiving that year. That was @ the time Chef Paul Prudhomme's star was rising; that was the year Chef Paul first went public w/his recipe. Of course the recipe has evolved over time. This was the simpler way it was given out that Thanksgiving when we tried our hands @ cooking the Turducken.

It called for a boned chicken, duck & turkey w/ three different stuffings between birds. Beginning w/the smallest bird into the larger bird ending w/ the turkey. Of course since we both were foodies we thought we'd give it a try. There were far fewer ingredients then than now. I myself only used one stuffing: cornbread. (My favorite.) What was cool about it @ that time (& not too many people knowing about it) was the carving of the bird. It was rather dramatic when cut from port to starboard revealing the birds & stuffing layers w/no bones! We were very lucky in that we lived around the corner from one of the Whole Food markets that more than happily boned the various birds for us. That would have been a far greater adventure than either one of us would have cared to try!

These are the ingredients that were snail mailed to us that year for just the birds.                  
Inside shot


1 chicken (3 to 4 lbs)
1 duckling (5 to 6 lbs)
1 turkey (15 to 20 lbs)
Duck or Chicken giblets (2 lbs) 


The recipes for the three stuffings were also given; I've included only 2 different dressing/stuffing recipes. If you care to be adventurous & try stuffing between each bird you to can chose your preferred choice for the third.
Baked Oyster Dressing
2 tsp unsalted butter
1 pint shucked oysters and their liquor
Chef Paul Prudomme
2 tbs vegetable oil
2 cups chopped yellow onions
1 cup chopped green bell peppers
1 cup chopped celery
1 1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp cayenne
3 bay leaves
1 tbs minced garlic
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
1 cup water
1/4 cup chopped green onions
4 cups 1-inch cubes French bread
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan
Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Butter a 9 by 11-inch baking pan and set aside.
Drain the oysters, reserving the oyster liquor. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions, bell peppers, celery, salt, and cayenne and saute for 5 minutes, or until soft.
Add the bay leaves, garlic, and parsley, and saute for 1 minute. Add the water and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly.
Add the green onions, oyster liquor, and the bread cubes. Stir to mix well, and remove from the heat.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the bread and vegetable mixture with the oysters and cheese. Stir with a wooden spoon to mix thoroughly.
Pour the mixture into the prepared baking pan and bake for 1 hour, or until bubbly and golden brown.
Remove the bay leaves before serving.
Cornbread Stuffing (Make the corn bread first)
This cornbread is made with cornmeal and flour, along with egg, and bacon drippings. (If your heart kin take it)
Corn Bread1/2 cup cornmeal (sifted before measuring)
1 1/3 cup sifted flour
1 tsp baking soda
Best way to make cornbread cast iron slillet
1 1/2 tsp baking powder                1/2 tsp salt, if desired                    2 eggs, well beaten
1 cup buttermilk
2 cups whole milk
1 1/2 tbs butter or (bacon drippings)
Preheat oven to 350°.
Sift the flour, cornmeal, baking soda, baking powder, and salt into a mixing bowl.
Stir beaten eggs into the dry ingredients. Stir in the buttermilk and 1 cup whole milk.
Heat the butter in a 9 X 2-inch iron skillet. When skillet is very hot but butter has not browned, pour in the batter.
Carefully pour the remaining 1 cup whole milk on top of the batter; do not stir.
Place the skillet in the oven and bake 50 minutes, or until cornbread is set and baked through.
Dressing (again make the corn bread first) 1 cup butter or margarine, divided 3 cups white cornmeal 1 cup all-purpose flour 2 tbls sugar
2 tsp baking powder
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp baking soda7 large eggs, divided
3 cups buttermilk
3 cups soft breadcrumbs
2 medium onions, diced (2 cups)
1 large bunch celery, diced (3 cups)
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh sage (1 tbs dried rubbed sage may be substituted for fresh sage)
6 (10 1/2-ounce) cans condensed chicken broth, undiluted
1 tbs pepper
Place 1/2 cup butter in a 13- x 9-inch pan; heat in oven at 425° for 4 minutes.
Combine cornmeal and next 5 ingredients; whisk in 3 eggs and buttermilk.
Pour hot butter into batter, stirring until blended. Pour batter into pan.
Bake at 425° for 30 minutes or until golden brown. Cool.
Crumble cornbread into a large bowl; stir in breadcrumbs, and set aside.
Melt remaining 1/2 cup butter in a large skillet over medium heat; add onions and celery, and saute until tender.
Sir in sage, and saute 1 more minute.
Stir vegetables, remaining 4 eggs, chicken broth, and pepper into cornbread mixture
Pour evenly into 1 lightly greased 13- x 9-inch baking dish and 1 lightly greased 8-inch square baking dish.
Cover and chill 8 hours.
Bake, uncovered, at 375° for 35 to 40 minutes or until golden brown.

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Rice/Hominy/Grits Croquettes

                                                                       
Carolina Indians working rice

In my Gran Mama's cookbook these croquettes are made exactly the same. Remember when I told Acadian settlers when they came well I'm gonna share a little history w/you. Although it began it's journey in Virginia it traveled south from the Carolinas to Louisiana with the slave trade. Louisiana rice was originally grown for home consumption
when farmers tossed rice seed into the wetlands near
bayous or ponds. (areas that couldn't be plowed)
It was called “providence rice” by harvesters that
were thankful from this casual method.Commercial
rice production began in the second half of the
19th century, helped along by the railroad, which
transported the crop to New Orleans.
Rice is the state’s second-largest agricultural export and the
state is the nation’s third-largest rice-producer. As a result Crowley has hosted the International Rice Festival annually since 1936. It draws more than 150,000 visitors from all over the world.
Louisiana’s rice farmers combine the best of rice farming practices along with conservation stewardship. In winter, water held on rice fields, can providing vital resting places plus a food source for migratory birds. Louisiana rice fields also support other of other wetland-dependent wildlife species. Enough history on w/the recipe.

1 cup rice/hominy/grits yolk of 4 eggs 
farina boiler
1 quart milk Salt and Pepper to taste

Wash the the rice.hominy/grits well (starch off) put it onto boil (after pressed through sieve) in milk in what was called a farina boiler (actually a big double boiler) If uncooked boil for about an hour if already cooked twenty minutes will do. When it becomes quite thick remove from heat and beat til very smooth completely mashing all the grains. Add the beaten eggs and cook for 8-10 minutes longer. @ this point one can add either savoy herbs or fruit of choice. Take off the heat when cool enough to handle form into cylinders 3 inches long by 1 & 1/2 inch thick. Roll in the egg whites & bread crumbs then fry in shortening/lard drain then serve w/daube (an inexpensive cut of meat braised) if savory. Or w/sugar & vanilla sauce if fruit added.
                                                  
 Rice Croquettes with daube




Grillades & grits

Grillades are a favorite cut of meat usually round which is cut into pieces each one roughly 6-8 inches each portion being called grillade. Season w/salt & pepper well maybe a touch of Cayenne, cover thoroughly making certain the seasoning permeates the meat. The way most familiar way is Panéed or breaded and is usually veal. The pieces are 4 inches for this.

get ready for the day!
I round steak or eye of round (tenderloin)
1/4 cup shortening
1 beaten egg
1/2 cup bread crumbs
Salt, Pepper , Cayenne

Cut into pieces, season well, beat egg soak each grillade well before rolling in or dusting w/the bread crumbs. (grating if they are fresh) Have the pan ready w/hot shortening deep enough for the grillades to swim in. fry till brown. Serve hot. This often is accompanied w/grits.

Here is a recipe in my Gran Mamas cookbook well before today's more thoroughly processed grits .

Yellow grits include the whole kernel, while white grits are hulled kernels.
2 cups grits
2 quarts water
2 tsps salt

Wash the grits in fresh cold water throw off the refuse then wash again and drain. Add the grits to the 2quarts add salt and stir frequently while bringing to a boil. Turn down low let cook about an hour or to what ever consistency desired. Today follow the instructions of whatever brand you buy. I loved it when there where left over grits. My momma would pack them into a square "ice box dish" put them in the fridge and we'd slice them the next morning & pan fry 'um. Yum!!

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Creole Jambalaya

Alright, let's get on w/my version of Creole jambalaya, as there are many recipes & ways it can be made today, I do my own thing. But when it comes to cooking isn't that what we're told, follow the instructions then make it your own? I went with a combination of the various meats/seafood that considered the palates, likes & dislikes of  my fellow parishioners in Connecticut .This time my version of Creole jambalaya was chicken, a bit of pork, sausage & a little crayfish (pronounced crawfish) I was able to get. Since there where about 13 people & I wanted enough for seconds I wasn't exact. It came in handy that I'd inherited a well seasoned cast iron Dutch Oven from my Momma. In my mind it's the best way of cookin' (Creole) jambalaya Unless you have leftovers you'll need these items for your these ingredient list. Serves about 10 so I doubled it.

Ingredients:
3-4 tablespoons of butter
1 lb.of sausage (smoked) (andoille if ya kin git it)
1 lb. of chicken
All meats should be cut the same size for cooking, also cut the veggies same size to themselves (not necessarily to the meat)
2 bay leaves
a pinch of any kind of Creole/Cajun seasoning (I like Zatarain's or Tony Chachere's)
1 cup chopped onions
1/2 bell pepper (green) (chopped)
1/2 bell pepper (red) (chopped)
2 stalks of celery (chopped)
1 tablespoon minced garlic (ain't no vampire gonna get me!)
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
3-31/2 cups of rice
1 cup of tomato sauce (optional if you're wanting to make the red)
couple green onions & a bunch of parsley

Melt the butter over medium high heat, add the sausage cook (4-5 mins.) till it begins to brown, moving constantly so nothing burns. Add chicken pieces doing the same. Add the pinch of seasoning, bay leaves & 1/2 the veggies Cook till tender (6-8 mins.) Remember to keep everything moving. Stir, stir, stir. (here's when you add the tomato sauce cook for 1min. if desired)
Add the remaining veggies, rice & stock Mix well stirring occasionally while it comes to a boil. Reduce heat (simmer), cover & cook for about 45-50 mins. (til rice is to your liking) Serve hot garnish w/ green onions & parsley